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What is a Winemaker – Viticulturalist/Oenologist

 

by Puneet Dhall - Dated
September 2005

 

I want a dry white wine, full bodied almost creamy in texture, still maintaining a zestiness, but not so fruit driven on the nose, more toasted features and perhaps some flintiness. Robust, good length, ageing potential and Big. Rs 300 per bottle cost price after tax’

Let’s stick with the above description. Always start your project with your desired wine style.

Every winemaker I’ve met always has the following adage in their bag of truthful clichés

‘Great wines are made in the Vineyard’ – This is the area of the Viticulturalist

In the current climate of rapid growth in Indian wine producing vineyards, particularly in the Maharashtra area, it will only take a few badly made wines to destroy the Indian brand locally and globally…and that will ruin the party for everyone

Site selection is absolutely crucial. Above all vines need good drainage. Roots do not like being wet at all. They thrive in an environment where their natural inclination is to stretch out and search for water and trace elements. Try to avoid clayed soils, unless you have some serious contours on your side, or really believe you can counter the vigorous vine growth through more aggressive training systems or rootstock selection. Vigorous soils will lead to excessive vegetative growth, already an issue in sub-tropical growing conditions.

It is therefore essential that you match your desired wine style to your site and not vice versa. Be very wary of growing vines on a site, just because you have an available site. For our wine style, we would perhaps  want a shallow loamy soil on a deeper well drained base, say limestone or preferably chalk. Ideally we would like to have a south facing slope for maximum sunshine exposure, and North to South lined rows for equal exposure to sunshine on both sides of the vine.

Spend time deciding on the best form of trellising. Once your trellising has been fixed, it is very very difficult to replace. In areas of low humidity, and where machine harvesting is available, then by all means go for an Aussie style minimal pruning system. In most other cases, you’re going to have to think of an alternative. Again think twice about your chosen site if you are being lead to choosing an excessively de-vigourating style of trellising, due to soil vigour.

Curb your enthusiasm on High Crop Yields. With good canopy management and viticultural practices, crops can achieve higher crop loads and still achieve optimum desired maturity, but it will take a few years before your at this level. Really think about using foreign crop load models for the varieties that you are working with. With the early ripeners such as the Muscat et al, you may be able to go a bit higher, but again you really need to thin twice when cropping above 4 Tonnes per acre. This brings us on to vine spacing. With more vigorous soils think about wider vine spacings. With lower vigour soils you may want to consider French models of 1m x 1m spacing single armed cordons. In New Zealand the most practiced method by far is 4 cane Vertical Shoot Positioned or spur pruned VSP. With the higher density vine spacings, consideration needs to be given as to whether your tractor can travel down the rows effectively, and has ample headspace at the end of each row to turn effectively. In rough numbers you’ll be looking at 5000 vines per Ha.

Really take time on choosing your rootstocks for your vines. From disease resistance to countering slightly saline soils, which I understand can be an issue in many Sub Tropical Indian soils, your rootstock could be the difference between make and break. I highly recommend a browse through the Yalumba Nursery Rootstock selector on the following website. http://www.yalumbanursery.com/

Finally Good Canopy management is a must. It reduces incidence of pest and disease, improves fruit flavours and crop yields, and can even help to retain slightly higher acidity levels through slower ripening. For me reading ‘Sunlight into Wine’ explains everything, and is really an essential purchase.

SMART, R. & Robinson, M. 1991. Sunlight Into Wine. A handbook for winegrape canopy management. Winetitles, Adelaide. 88 pp

Really take detailed notes of the growth of your vines through the season, noting all environmental factors and critical phenological dates. If the fruit that is delivered to the Oenologist is free of pest and disease, has optimum flavour profile for that variety, and has sugar and acidity levels in the right ball park, we’re onto a winner….and once harvest is over you can lean back, kick off your shoes and drink a Kingfisher…at least that’s what I always do

Article written by:

Puneet Dhall

 
     
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