The Mediterranean diet, which has been associated with longer life spans and lower rates of heart disease and cancer, is in retreat in its home region.

Santi Santamaría, one of Spain’s most prominent chefs, has directed bruising public attacks at his avant-garde counterparts, saying their food is pretentious and their ingredients often dangerous.

As soon as the first spring onions hit the market, I picked up a bunch and decided to try my hand at a romesco sauce.